No, this is not an oxymoron.
But there is a secret: wild salmon.
Ok, two secrets: poaching, not boiling for 3 hours.
At the risk of outraging Bad Cohen, I'm going to let you in on his amazing discoveries so that your family, too, can reclaim this dish for the 21st century.
What does this mean?
You fish should be 2 parts wild salmon (fairly good quality, fatty fish) and 1 part true cod. This makes for a more expensive dish, but believe me, it's worth it. In the quantities we usually make (enough for 2 seders and lunches all week), we spend about $60 on fish. $50 of that is the salmon.
HOWEVER, this is only a good investment if you don't boil the hell out of the fish.
Make small balls (about the size of golf balls), and cook them in small batches. Drop them into simmering fish broth, and cook them for about 8 minutes AFTER they start floating.
OK, if you've read this far, you deserve one more tip:
Homemade fish broth? Phhbbbt.
Dashi takes 10 minutes if you can find a reliable source of dried bonito flakes (smoked and dried pieces of skipjack tuna) that you know doesn't contain any non-kosher fish. Obviously, this option is a freak-out if you're Orthodox, so skip it.
(Disclaimer: although these tips make for a better dish and shorter cooking time, Bad Cohen did walk into the house Sunday afternoon and quote Han Solo after landing in the garbage chute - "My, what a wonderful SMELL you've discovered.") ;-}